Davidson Woods

13 September - Cairns AUS - Bowerbirds
Anne and Chuck submitted on January 19, 1970
My first bowerbird in PNG was McGregor’s, a more handsome one. Anne spotted a less elegant species, the Yellow-breasted, a day earlier. She almost missed the McGregoprs by going on a “cultural tour” for one morning. Good news was that a McGregor’s showed up again in the afternoon. These often pigeon-sized birds are noted for the peculiar structures the males make to interest females. We have seen a few of these bowers and I find them amazing.
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTMy first bowerbird in PNG was McGregor’s, a more handsome one. Anne spotted a less elegant species, the Yellow-breasted, a day earlier. She almost missed the McGregoprs by going on a “cultural tour” for one morning. Good news was that a McGregor’s showed up again in the afternoon. These often pigeon-sized birds are noted for the peculiar structures the males make to interest females. We have seen a few of these bowers and I find them amazing. It used to be argued that the bizarre behaviors of various fruit eating birds including the bowerbirds and birds of paradise somehow reflected “fitness” and so females choosing males behaving strangely were rewarded with good genes to fertilize their eggs. Now some suggest this is bunk. The ladies simply swoon for males that provide a good show, and the males become useless except as sperm donors, their gaudy colors and outrageous behavior probably providing some humor to the predators that find them easy targets. It seems that fruit eating makes for an easy life, and it is mostly fruit eating birds that turn the males into freak shows. The bowers seem to provide comfort in the form of cover to the females. It is hard for a male to jump a female in a bower, so she may sit and judge, and fly out if she does not like what she sees. “Should I stay, or should I go?”
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12 September - Raintree Lodge - Birding New Guinea
Anne and Chuck submitted on January 19, 1970
Many birds inhabit New Britain and New Guinea, but the islands are also well peopled, and there is no public land; therefore one birds among people. More, the most curious birds are the white people who come wearing field cloths and binoculars and calling birds with little speakers. And so, one must great the resident to obtain permission to bird and will be watched. One becomes used to that, but from time to time each of us needs leve the group to step behind a bush away from the group. That is difficult when there is often a person standing on the other side of the bush watching.
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTMany birds inhabit New Britain and New Guinea, but the islands are also well peopled, and there is no public land; therefore one birds among people. More, the most curious birds are the white people who come wearing field cloths and binoculars and calling birds with little speakers. And so, one must great the resident to obtain permission to bird and will be watched. One becomes used to that, but from time to time each of us needs leve the group to step behind a bush away from the group. That is difficult when there is often a person standing on the other side of the bush watching. One can retain only so long and then push into the bush for a bit of privacy, but observers certainly know what you are doing. They probably wonder at our retention abilities. I do not like to push into the bush in the tropics. Too many things that may eat you in whole or in part. Here the birding is difficult and we would often have to push off the trail despite the hazards. Anne and I quickly went to sealed knee boots for the birding. A few early chiggers convinced us that we wanted trouser legs properly Deet’d and inserted into the boots. One evening I became angry with a guide because we stood far to long discussing the owl we had just seen as a swarm of mosquitoes swarmed at the edge of the repellent fragrance around our heads. Our local guide was out sick that day. Malaria, he said. He suffers it two or three times each year. I do not want that experience! The owl though, was fabulous.
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12 September - Raintree Lodge - Diving at Walindi Resort
Anne and Chuck submitted on January 19, 1970
Arrived before the birding tour and dove for two days. Small boats took us to fringe reefs at the endge of Kimbe Bay. Equipment was well used but adequate. Reefs were lovely but showing stress. The anemones, basket stars, and small reef fish were spectacular. Adjusted to the warmth surprisingly easily and woke to the cries of the friarbirds that began their hoarse gurgling at dawn. We more often heard than saw these large bare-faced birds that haunt the trees of New Britain.
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTArrived before the birding tour and dove for two days. Small boats took us to fringe reefs at the endge of Kimbe Bay. Equipment was well used but adequate. Reefs were lovely but showing stress. The anemones, basket stars, and small reef fish were spectacular. Adjusted to the warmth surprisingly easily and woke to the cries of the friarbirds that began their hoarse gurgling at dawn. We more often heard than saw these large bare-faced birds that haunt the trees of New Britain. The conspicuous bird at the resort was Willy Wagtail, one of whom boldly built a nest on a stick stuck in the mud over the bay in front of the open lobby. We had been settled in when the bird tour arrived. We were new to the group; the other members had been with the guides on a New Guinea and carried on with the New Britain extension. We were starting with the extension and then joining another more abbreviated New Guinea tour. They were with the program. The guides had to shape us up to join the company. Breakfast 5 a.m., departure at 5:30, return to lodge for supper circa 7:30 p.m., night birding to follow. Bird, bird, bird. We adjusted well. Poor guides were flustered when one afternoon Laurie informed them that she was taking the afternoon off. Shocked they told her, “You will miss birds!” Ah yes, but there other things in life besides birds.
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12 September - Raintree Lodge, Port Moresby, PNG - Back from the Bush
Anne and Chuck submitted on January 19, 1970
Wonder why there have been no posts during this exciting phase of our touring? Well, posting requires a means of communication, and we have had little over the past days, and while there has been occasional Internet, it has been very, very slow. It is slow here, but should work for this message. A second reason for the silence is that bird touring can be very intense, and our was a serious tour in one of the most difficult places in the world to bird. And so, when we were not birding or eating, we were resting. On most days we birdied for some 12 hours, rising at 5 a.m.
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTWonder why there have been no posts during this exciting phase of our touring? Well, posting requires a means of communication, and we have had little over the past days, and while there has been occasional Internet, it has been very, very slow. It is slow here, but should work for this message. A second reason for the silence is that bird touring can be very intense, and our was a serious tour in one of the most difficult places in the world to bird. And so, when we were not birding or eating, we were resting. On most days we birdied for some 12 hours, rising at 5 a.m. and wrapping up searches for nightjars and owls at about 9 p.m. On one evening one of our participants broke into tears, she was so tired even if so happy at what she had seen that day. We did find birds. The expert guides know the birds, where to find them, and how to lure them in for sightings. As a result we saw hundreds of species. A fellow participant, a senior lad from Manchester, England, said he could have arranged his own visit and he would have found two birds. That is an exaggeration, but his point is correct. Once in a while a bird may shriek, and you may look up to see it sitting on a branch, but mostly they are hidden in a bush. Birds do not wish to end up in a pot or part of a “wig” headdress. Th doves and parrots have lovely colors, but mostly they are green and browse quietly for fruit among green leaves on the tops of high branches, and being uncomfortable around people they fly far off at their close approach. We had to earn our birds.
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Mark’s notes from Burgundy (9/5)
MarkD submitted on January 19, 1970
Drove to Vosne Romanee after breakfast at home. Michel Noellat - had very nice tasting led by Sophia Noellat (daughter of Michel Noellat - married to Robert Sirigue) - told us all about family and estate and life as vigneron in Burgundy - tasted long 2017 red lineup including Bourgogne red, village wines from CM, VR, and NSG (plus Fixin), 1ere Cru VR, 1ere Cru’s Suchots and Beaumonts, and Grand Cru Vougeot, plus a 2014 and 2011 Beaumonts her father opened the prior day - - the Vougeot and Beaumonts were drinking nicely - then she suggested we follow a tour guide downstairs for a quick view of the cellar
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTDrove to Vosne Romanee after breakfast at home. Michel Noellat - had very nice tasting led by Sophia Noellat (daughter of Michel Noellat - married to Robert Sirigue) - told us all about family and estate and life as vigneron in Burgundy - tasted long 2017 red lineup including Bourgogne red, village wines from CM, VR, and NSG (plus Fixin), 1ere Cru VR, 1ere Cru’s Suchots and Beaumonts, and Grand Cru Vougeot, plus a 2014 and 2011 Beaumonts her father opened the prior day - - the Vougeot and Beaumonts were drinking nicely - then she suggested we follow a tour guide downstairs for a quick view of the cellar Drove to Gevrey Chambertain. Gerard Seguin - had nice tasting led by Jerome Seguin (son of Gerard) - we spoke about 50% French and 50% English - tasted 2018 red wines from the barrel in their cellar - drank a Bourgogne red and village wines from GC and CM, 3 1ere Crus (Crapilot, Craus, and St Jacques (which was the nicest in the lineup) and a GC VV Drove thru Morey St. Denis (and stopped to pickup wine) on way to Chassagne Montrachet Ed Em - ate lunch at this Michelin 1 star restaurant in CM - prix fix lunch with inamuse bouch (fried quail eggs, spinach tart with red wine sauce and fried rice cracker with anchovy and artichoke purée), smoked mackerel in fennel sauce and onion for appetizer, fresh sardines with lemon creme sauce on zucchini for main course, and dessert with apricot-flavored sorbet and sauce with little madeleines, small blackberries and cookie crumble Drove to outskirts of town (Morogue). Lamy Pillot: Had wonderful tasting with Daniel (son-in-law of owners) - saw fabulous collection of corkscrews collected by one of owners - tasted through many whites, including Bourgogne, Haut CM, St Aubin, CM Pot Bois, CM 1ere Crus Vergers, Clos St Jean, Morgeot, and reds Santenay, sous Bois, and Morgeot Drove to Puligny Montrachet. Bzikot - found winery after a second attempt (it was unmarked) - owner’s wife only spoke French and told us we were late - appointment was for 11 in morning - however she said she had 20 minutes and would do a quick tasting (which turned into 30 minutes) - started with Bourgogne white (very rich and buttery), then St Aubin, PM village, PM Rouselles (lieu-dit), PM 1ere Cru, PM 1ere crus Folatieres and Perrieres (both very nice) - she then took us into work area where wine was being bottled and corked Drove to Beaune and visited Fromagerie Alain Hess which Daniel and waitress had recommended- bought cheese Sophie and mother recommended - Abbaye de Citeau and Brillat Savarin.
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Mark’s notes from Burgundy (9/4)
MarkD submitted on January 19, 1970
Drove to Vosne-Romanee after leisurely breakfast at Airbnb Michel Noellat - parked in back parking lot - walked through gates to Clos Reas and surveyed vineyards - saw green grapes hanging high on vines with red grapes below - assume they are late buds that haven’t been pruned - found out that there was miscommunication with Dan Posner and no appointment was available today - rescheduled for 9:30 tomorrow morning.
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTDrove to Vosne-Romanee after leisurely breakfast at Airbnb Michel Noellat - parked in back parking lot - walked through gates to Clos Reas and surveyed vineyards - saw green grapes hanging high on vines with red grapes below - assume they are late buds that haven’t been pruned - found out that there was miscommunication with Dan Posner and no appointment was available today - rescheduled for 9:30 tomorrow morning. Drove to Nuits St-George and walked around town - had lunch at La Cabotte (beef bourgognone hake) and cafe & ice creme at neighboring restaurant- I then walked to wine store (Cavon de Bacchus) and bought wine (2014 Clerget Vosne Romanee Violettes, 2016 Arnoux Lachaux Chambolle-Musigny and 2016 Nuits St-Georges) for Loire Valley tasting Drove to Ladoix-Seringy and stopped at Domaine Ravaut - found out we were at wrong Ravaut and headed north to the other Ravaut Gaston & Pierre Ravaut - this was a small producer off the beaten track and they were busy getting bottles ready for harvest when we arrived - Christophe (foreman or manager) came out to handle the tasting - gave us a brief run down of area and their holdings in Ladoix and Aloxe-Corton- tasted 2017s - Bourgogne Chardonnay, several Ladoix whites including 1ere crus (did we taste Corton Charlemagne?) - also tasted reds from Ladoix and Aloxe-Corton including several 1ere crus (Ladoix Corvees and AC Bois Roussot and Les Basses Mourottes) and 1 grand cru (AC Bressandes) - bought a few bottles (Basses Mourottes and Chardonnay) for the Loire tasting Drove to Volnay to see the town and check out wine store at Cellier Volnaysian - restaurant and wine store were closed because it was Wednesday so looked around and saw that the store/tasting area for Vaudoisey winery was open - bought 2 bottles of Mitans for Loire tasting Got home early so took a leisurely swim in the pool - then had spaghetti dinner a second night - then walked around town and called it a night.
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Mark’s notes from Burgundy (9/3)
MarkD submitted on January 19, 1970
Breakfast at Airbnb (bread, cheese and cookies). Drove to Beaune. Louis Jadot - had tour of modern circular winery with Philibert De Vregille. Jadot appears to be investing a lot of money in modernization and quality improvement of its facilities - e.g., have begun to make their barrels - another novelty was that red wine was destemmed but white was not - we then went to tasting room where we tasted about 17 barrel samples of 2017 vintage wines - whites included one aligote from Bouzeron, a Chablis, a Pernand Vergelesses, a Beaune area white, a Meusault, a Montrachet Chassagne and a Corton Charlemagne - reds included a Santenay, a Pernand Vergelesses, two Beaunes (including Ursules (Jadot’s first vineyard), a Nuit St George, Gevrey Chambertain Petit Chapelle, a Vougeot, a Chambertain Chapelle
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTBreakfast at Airbnb (bread, cheese and cookies). Drove to Beaune. Louis Jadot - had tour of modern circular winery with Philibert De Vregille. Jadot appears to be investing a lot of money in modernization and quality improvement of its facilities - e.g., have begun to make their barrels - another novelty was that red wine was destemmed but white was not - we then went to tasting room where we tasted about 17 barrel samples of 2017 vintage wines - whites included one aligote from Bouzeron, a Chablis, a Pernand Vergelesses, a Beaune area white, a Meusault, a Montrachet Chassagne and a Corton Charlemagne - reds included a Santenay, a Pernand Vergelesses, two Beaunes (including Ursules (Jadot’s first vineyard), a Nuit St George, Gevrey Chambertain Petit Chapelle, a Vougeot, a Chambertain Chapelle We drove to Chambolle-Musigny, arriving a half hour late because a mistake in following the gps, but it all worked out fine (Mary Margaret called the restaurant and moved our reservation back) Les Millésime - we ate a prix fix lunch at this one star Michelin restaurant with a good bottle of Chambolle-Musigny wine (mussel appetizer with mushrooms and escargot), a beef (like corned beef) dish with Cauliflower, and a fig dessert in reduced red wine sauce with whipped creme Comte de Vogue - this was a very old traditional estate in Chambolle-Musigny- we had a tasting with Francois Millet, the chief wine maker - he took us into the cellar and drew barrel samples from five wines from the 2018 vintage (Musigny 1er Cru, Musigny young vines, Amoureuses, Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vielle Vignes) and discussed each with us - we had a very philosophical discussion of his approach to the nature world (and the terroirs of the estate) and his approach to wine making (attempting to empathize with the vines, grapes and wine and find the best way to relate to each to achieve the most harmonious relationship). He told us how hard that had been in the 2018 vintage because it was a unique vintage that did not line up with anything in his prior experience - the wines were dark in color and very concentrated, but there was a lot of fruit and we could see a lot of potential, especially in the grand cru wines We then drove back Meloisey, stopping just north of Gevry Chambertain to buy groceries.
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Mark’s notes from Burgundy (8/30 - 9/2)
MarkD submitted on January 19, 1970
8/30 Drove to Auxerre from CDG St Etienne Cathedral - parked by church and went in - very old Romanesque style church - constructed in stages beginning around 500 AD - most of Gothic structure seen today was completed in 1200s (Dark Ages) - very striking stain glass windows Tourist office - picked up book of walking tour - had lunch at Bounty restaurant - walked to walking bridge over river and looked at boats and town - followed walking trail to Abbey past old section of town with many timbered houses
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENT8/30 Drove to Auxerre from CDG St Etienne Cathedral - parked by church and went in - very old Romanesque style church - constructed in stages beginning around 500 AD - most of Gothic structure seen today was completed in 1200s (Dark Ages) - very striking stain glass windows Tourist office - picked up book of walking tour - had lunch at Bounty restaurant - walked to walking bridge over river and looked at boats and town - followed walking trail to Abbey past old section of town with many timbered houses Saint Germaine Abbey - turned into museum with rich collection of historical artifacts, including Celtic and Roman - had interesting art exhibit in which you looked at iPad to see animation on top of still painting or rocks - also crypt area where had dug out necropolis Drove to Noyer Got key from Cathy at boulangerie - checked into comfortable apartment, then Mark and I walked around town - meet Cathy at 7 pm to obtain instructions - walked to Les Millisemes, restaurant in alley operated by owner of high end boulangerie, charcuterie - had buffet style dinner 8/31 Drove to Chablis Breakfast - bought from Boulangerie downtown Christian Moreau - had wonderful introduction to Chablis - Christian drove us to top of hill overlooking vineyards and explained where all of the designate regions (grand cru, premier cru, petit Chablis and village) and climats (vineyards) were located - then drove around to see his vines - then back to building for tour of production facilities, movie and tasting - as a coup de grace, he took us to Zinc au fils for a gourmet lunch Barat - this was small producer in adjoining town of Milly - wines were not great and we didn’t stay long Drove to Montard (check) Fontenay Abbey - grounds were beautiful and peaceful - no available tour in English so we walked the grounds - Cistercian Abbey was confiscated during revolution and sold to mill company - ultimately recovered and restored to much of original look - Abbey has beautiful grounds and gardens - also had operating iron forge with pneumatic hammer powered by water Drove back to Noyer Bought wine, cheese, pate and bread at shop and eat at apartment- Mark and I took extended walk around Noyer to take pictures of town 9/1 Checked out of Airbnb and Drove to Avallon St. Lazarath church - walked to church in old town area past Porte tower - another very old Romanesque style church with beautiful stained glass windows and chapel to saints - unusual design with steps in center aisle descending in stages from street Petit Porte - walked to Porte on main street- looked at wall and towers, as well as view of Morvan Park Drove to Dijon Walked to indoor market and checked it out - had live singer with accordion who was quite good - then ate at Les 3 Bures - had pouched eggs Palais of ducs of Bourgogne (Musee Beaux Arts) - walked Owl trail to Palais - spent two+ hours going through collection - had extensive collection of religious art, plus tombs of ducs - interesting museum that attempted use collection to show how changes in art from one historical period to another were influenced by what was happening at the time - had exhibition of painter who did many works in black paint only on white background Drove to Beaune and then Meloisey to check into Airbnb 9/2 Drove to Nuits St George - had coffee and pastry at Cafe de Paris - walked to Winery DuFouleur Freres - spent two wonderful hours with Francois Xavier (FX) - spent 45 minutes in winery reviewing entire process of making wine and use of equipment - then went to tasting room, reviewed location of vineyards, location on hills and soil types - then tasted 4 Nuit St George (including 1 Les St George) and 1 Vosne Romanee wines Drove to Beaune - eat lunch at La Fleure Bouchard - spent over 2 hours with Cecile Blanchardon - toured cellar of Maison (walls were foundation of fortress build around time of Hundred Years’ War) - 2 million bottles of last two years premier and grand cru wines stored there - have ancient wines dating back to 1846 that are still drinkable - then walked to top of garden area and looked out over vineyards and trimmed topiary trees in garden - gardeners were cutting lavender and MH was given a bunch - the went to tasting area and tasted 5 reds and 7 whites, including 2 grand crus from Corton (white and red), 2 Fevre chablis and a Ponce Beaujolais (Fleurie) Hospice de Beaune - found MM across from entrance to Hospice - put her gear in car and returned to take audio guided tour of Hospice Museum -included interesting discussion of history and renovation of Hospice, care of patients, day to day life of nuns and medical advances of the times La Bussinette- had dinner in Beaune (duck and beef, with frogs legs for appetizer) Drove back to Meloisey
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September 1 - Touring in a Third World Country
Anne and Chuck submitted on January 19, 1970
We are weathering our visit to PNG well, but it is not easy touring here. The temperature falls to 74 at night. The humidity is 80% at best. The electricity turns off at 11 p.m. One of the fans operates by battery. The highway is paved except where it has broken to pieces. The side roads are simply cuts through the trees. Our resort has creature comforts. The people outside of the fence have scarcely that. Most houses are about 8x15 feet rectangles on stilts with windowless and screenless openings. Many along the highway have feeble lights. I don’t know how they power them.
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTWe are weathering our visit to PNG well, but it is not easy touring here. The temperature falls to 74 at night. The humidity is 80% at best. The electricity turns off at 11 p.m. One of the fans operates by battery. The highway is paved except where it has broken to pieces. The side roads are simply cuts through the trees. Our resort has creature comforts. The people outside of the fence have scarcely that. Most houses are about 8x15 feet rectangles on stilts with windowless and screenless openings. Many along the highway have feeble lights. I don’t know how they power them. The resort has a generator, of course. Many of the staff live here where life is so much richer. The young children are naked. Older folks have informal clothing. Few wear shoes in the bush. People walk about. Open trucks act as buses. Life is hot and hard for everyone. I would find it hard to exist here without a retreat to the resort, but the people of PNG must. At first view of this land one feels one has to do something, but one cannot really change everything here. We do what we can and our visit provides real support. That is something. So, we enjoy our time here among people who are glad to have us here to see a beautiful country where life is so different.
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September 1 - Walindi Resort, Kimbe, New Britain, Papua New Guinea
Anne and Chuck submitted on January 19, 1970
So good to see so much activity on this web site. France seems so wonderful, but we are enjoying our jungle adventures.
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BLOG TITLEBLOG CONTENTSo good to see so much activity on this web site. France seems so wonderful, but we are enjoying our jungle adventures. We are relaxing before supper, tired but happy. We are sweaty and sticky but will not shower until after an owl hunting expedition tonight. That will happen after supper. So goes a birding tour. I’m sipping a beer to make my body more comfortable. We hiked about five miles today up a mountain in the tropical warmth and humidity. Scored some great birds and passed by rural homesteads, cacao, banana, taro, yucca, pineapple, and bean fields, and through tropical rain forest. Our local guide spoke of suffering malaria two or three times a year. A helper chewed betel nuts and spit. Children walked down the jungle trail as if they were at home. We lunched in a little slash and burn field planted in taro at the edge of the jungle. We have two international guides. One is relatively laid back. He will lead our next tour starting the day after tomorrow. The other is an intense young Dutchman. He reminds me of our former neighbor, “Mile More Bob” who always wanted to go farther on a hike. This afternoon there was a near mutiny. Another participant said he would go no farther. I provided support pointing out that my water was near empty. The guide relented, told us to stay, and went even farther up the volcanic peak before turning back to join us going back down the mountain. The intensity is good for finding the birds. People think it is easy finding birds in the tropics. There are so many and they squawk. Well, many kinds are uncommon and secretive. Obtaining views is a great challenge and takes time and perseverance, especially in the heat with malarial mosquitoes. This evening we can say that we have seen the Black-capped Paradise Kingfisher. I doubt that a thousand people in the world can say that. Yesterday, we birdied by van and on foot at various locations. We joined breakfast at five a.m. and were on the road at six. We returned to the lodge at almost eight p.m. total exhausted. The exercise was not so bad, but the roads through the palm plantations were horrendous. The van would variously hit bottom and bounce about. What a trek. But in the evening we stopped along a river as the day birds went to roost and the night birds and owls came out. What a sight. Nicobar pigeons flapped over. Swifts filled the air over the river. Micro bats made passage under the palms. Giant fruit bats paddled slowly over the trees. Synchronous fireflies flashed from bushes near the water. Crocodiles, our guide said, waited for any splash along the river to pounce. It is a different world here. Tomorrow we go out on the water to bird. Was windy today, hopping it will be calmer. Our last day here at Walindi. Then back to Port Moresby where we will stay to bird Variata National Park before flying to Mt. Hagen deep deep in the main island.
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